What Does Specialty Coffee Actually Mean?

What Does Specialty Coffee Actually Mean?


How coffee is graded, what separates specialty coffee from commercial coffee, and what you're actually paying for.

You've probably seen the word "specialty" on a coffee bag before.

Specialty coffee.

Premium coffee.

Gourmet coffee.

Craft coffee.

Those words get thrown around a lot.

But specialty coffee actually has a history and a set of quality standards behind it.

It isn't supposed to mean, "We put it in a nicer bag and charged more for it."

And no, a coffee doesn't become specialty just because somebody roasted it light and wrote "notes of blueberry" on the label.

There are real differences in green coffee quality.

There are defects that are counted.

There are coffees that are professionally tasted and evaluated.

There are quality thresholds that have been used throughout the industry for decades.

And yes, most of the mass-market coffee sitting on a typical grocery-store shelf is not the same grade of coffee that specialty roasters are buying.

So let's talk about what all of that actually means.

Coffee is evaluated before the roaster ever turns on

Most people judge coffee by the finished drink.

Does it taste good?

Is it bitter?

Is it smooth?

Is it strong?

Coffee professionals have to start much earlier.

Before coffee is ever roasted, green coffee can be physically inspected for quality and defects.

That means looking at things like:

Bean condition.

Color.

Moisture.

Uniformity.

Insect damage.

Broken beans.

Improperly processed beans.

Foreign material.

And other defects that can eventually affect the cup.

Then the coffee is sample roasted and tasted through a process called cupping.

That's where people evaluate what the coffee actually tastes like.

So when we're looking at green coffee, we're not simply asking:

"Will this make coffee?"

We're asking:

"How good is this coffee, how clean is it, what does it taste like, and is it something we actually want to buy?"

That's an entirely different question.

First, they look at the green coffee

Before roasting, coffee beans don't look anything like the brown beans you're used to seeing.

They're usually some shade of green, blue-green or yellow-green.

And they're not all equal.

Coffee is an agricultural product.

It's the seed of a fruit.

That means things can go wrong during growing, harvesting, processing, drying and storage.

A bean can be completely black.

It can be sour or improperly fermented.

It can have insect damage.

It can be broken or chipped.

A lot can contain pieces of dried cherry, husk, sticks, stones or other foreign material.

Some defects are considered much more serious than others because they can dramatically affect flavor.

Historically, specialty green coffee has been held to a very strict physical standard.

In a 350-gram sample, specialty-grade coffee was expected to contain zero primary defects and no more than five full secondary defects.

Think about that for a second.

A little more than three-quarters of a pound of raw coffee gets examined for defects before anybody even starts talking about how it tastes.

And that's only the first part.

Because green coffee can look beautiful and still taste average.

So next comes the cup.

Then somebody has to taste it

This is called cupping.

Cupping is a standardized way of evaluating coffee without milk, syrup, an espresso machine or somebody's favorite brewing method changing the result.

The goal is to evaluate the coffee itself.

A sample is roasted.

It's ground.

Hot water is added under controlled conditions.

Then trained tasters evaluate the coffee as it cools.

They're paying attention to things like:

Fragrance and aroma.

Flavor.

Aftertaste.

Acidity.

Sweetness.

Body and mouthfeel.

Balance.

Cleanliness.

And whether any defects show up in the cup.

This is also where a lot of the language around specialty coffee comes from.

Chocolate.

Caramel.

Brown sugar.

Citrus.

Berries.

Nuts.

Floral notes.

Stone fruit.

Those flavors aren't necessarily being added to the coffee.

They're descriptions of characteristics people perceive naturally in the cup.

What about the famous 80-point rule?

For years, one of the easiest ways to explain specialty coffee was this:

80 points or higher on a 100-point evaluation scale was considered specialty coffee.

You'll still hear that constantly throughout the industry.

And it's still useful when you're trying to understand the difference between commercial coffee and higher-quality specialty coffee.

A rough breakdown looks like this.

Below 80

This does not meet the traditional specialty threshold.

This is where commercial and commodity coffees generally live.

That doesn't mean it can't make a drinkable cup of coffee.

Millions of people drink commercial coffee every morning and enjoy it.

It simply means it did not meet the traditional quality threshold used for specialty coffee.

80 to 84.99

This is where specialty coffee traditionally begins.

These coffees should be clean and show positive characteristics that distinguish them from ordinary commercial coffee.

An 82-point coffee isn't some ultra-rare competition coffee.

But it represents a meaningful step above ordinary commodity-grade coffee.

85 to 89.99

Now you're getting into excellent specialty coffee.

These coffees typically have more distinctive sweetness, acidity, aroma, flavor or complexity.

Origin and processing characteristics can become much easier to identify.

An 87-point coffee should give a knowledgeable buyer something worth paying attention to.

90 and above

Now you're in exceptional territory.

These coffees are uncommon.

They can be produced in much smaller quantities.

They often receive significant attention from buyers.

And they can command extremely high prices.

A 90-point coffee isn't simply "a little better" than a normal commercial coffee.

You're getting into the upper end of coffee quality.

Has the system changed?

Yes.

And this is worth explaining because coffee people love making simple things complicated.

The traditional 100-point scoring system is still deeply embedded in the industry.

But the Specialty Coffee Association has been moving toward a broader way of evaluating coffee called the Coffee Value Assessment.

The idea is that one number doesn't tell you everything there is to know about a coffee.

Today, coffee can be looked at through several different lenses.

Its physical quality.

What it tastes and smells like.

How an evaluator perceives its quality.

And information about the coffee itself, such as where it came from, how it was processed and what makes that particular coffee valuable.

So when you hear someone say:

"Specialty coffee is 80 points and above."

That's the traditional shorthand.

It's useful.

But it isn't the entire modern conversation anymore.

Coffee is more complicated than one number.

So what is the "normal" grocery-store coffee?

Let's be honest about this part.

Most of the mass-market coffee taking up space in a typical grocery-store coffee aisle is not specialty-grade coffee.

That's not an insult.

It's a difference in how the coffee is purchased, evaluated and sold.

Large commercial coffee companies operate at enormous scale.

They need huge quantities of coffee.

They need consistent supply.

They need predictable pricing.

And they need the finished product to taste basically the same every time somebody buys it.

If you buy the same can or bag in North Carolina, Texas or California, the company wants that coffee to taste familiar.

Next month?

Same thing.

Next year?

Same thing.

That requires a completely different buying strategy from a smaller specialty roaster selecting coffees because of the quality of a particular lot.

Commercial coffee is generally built around things like:

Consistency.

Volume.

Availability.

Cost.

Shelf life.

And a familiar flavor profile.

Specialty coffee is generally much more focused on things like:

Green coffee quality.

Cup quality.

Origin.

Processing.

Traceability.

Lot selection.

Distinctive flavor.

And the characteristics that make one coffee different from another.

Those are two very different goals.

But isn't specialty coffee sold in grocery stores too?

Absolutely.

And this is where people sometimes oversimplify the discussion.

A grocery store is a place where coffee is sold.

It is not a coffee grade.

You can walk into some grocery stores today and find legitimate specialty coffee sitting on the shelf.

You can have an 84-point coffee in a grocery store.

You can have an 86-point coffee in a grocery store.

You can also have commercial coffee sitting right next to it.

The shelf doesn't determine the grade.

The coffee does.

So when we talk about "grocery-store coffee," what we're really talking about is the large-volume commercial coffee that traditionally dominates the aisle.

Not every single bag sold inside a grocery store.

That's an important distinction.

Why doesn't most mass-market coffee need to be specialty grade?

Because it isn't trying to do the same job.

Imagine you're responsible for making millions and millions of pounds of one coffee product.

You need an incredible amount of raw coffee.

You need supply from year to year.

You need to control cost.

And most importantly, you need the finished product to taste like your brand.

If one origin changes, you may need to blend in coffee from somewhere else.

If one harvest tastes different, the blend can be adjusted.

If one component becomes too expensive, another component may take its place.

The individual character of one farm or one lot isn't necessarily the point.

Consistency is the point.

Specialty buying often flips that around.

Instead of asking:

"How do we make millions of pounds taste the same?"

You're asking:

"Is this coffee good enough that we specifically want to buy it?"

How does it cup?

Is it clean?

What does it taste like?

Where was it grown?

How was it processed?

What characteristics make this lot interesting?

What happens when we roast it?

That's a completely different purchasing decision.

Does that mean grocery-store coffee is bad?

No.

And that's not the point.

If you've been drinking the same coffee for 20 years and you love it, drink it.

We're not interested in telling somebody they're drinking coffee wrong.

But there is an important difference between saying:

"I like this coffee."

and saying:

"This is specialty-grade coffee."

Those aren't the same statement.

Taste is personal.

Grade is about quality standards.

A commercial coffee can absolutely be someone's favorite coffee.

That doesn't magically make the green coffee an 85-point specialty lot.

And an 87-point specialty coffee can be professionally evaluated as excellent while still not matching someone's personal preference.

Maybe you don't like bright, fruity coffee.

Maybe you want chocolate, nuts and caramel.

That's fine.

You don't have to enjoy every high-scoring coffee just because somebody handed it a number.

Specialty coffee doesn't mean light roast

This is another thing people get wrong.

A light roast is not automatically specialty coffee.

And a dark roast is not automatically commercial coffee.

Roast level and green coffee quality are two different things.

You can take excellent green coffee and roast it dark.

You can take mediocre green coffee and roast it light.

Changing the color of the bean doesn't magically change what you started with.

What roasting does change is how those characteristics show up in the cup.

Generally speaking, lighter roasting tends to preserve more of the flavors associated with origin and processing.

As roasting becomes darker, flavors created by the roasting process become more prominent.

You may get more dark chocolate.

More caramelization.

More roasted character.

Less noticeable acidity.

Eventually, if you roast dark enough, the roast itself can dominate much of the coffee's original character.

That doesn't mean dark roast is bad.

Some people love dark roast.

We roast coffees at different levels because we're trying to create different finished cups.

But roast preference and green coffee quality are not the same thing.

And "premium" doesn't necessarily mean specialty either

This is where coffee marketing can get messy.

Walk down an aisle and you'll see words like:

Premium.

Gourmet.

Reserve.

Select.

Artisan.

Craft.

Those words may sound impressive.

But they don't automatically tell you anything about how the green coffee actually graded or how it performed in the cup.

You can print "premium" on a bag.

That doesn't make it an 84-point coffee.

You can call something "gourmet."

That doesn't remove defects.

You can put mountains, farms and handwritten fonts on the packaging.

That doesn't change what's inside the bag.

That's why we'd rather talk about the coffee itself.

Where did it come from?

How was it processed?

What does it taste like?

How clean is it?

How was it selected?

What happens when we roast it?

Those questions matter more than whatever adjective somebody printed on the front.

Why do defects matter so much?

You might wonder whether a few bad beans can really change a cup.

They can.

Coffee is agricultural.

Things can go wrong.

Coffee cherries can be picked too early.

They can sit too long before processing.

Fermentation can go wrong.

Drying can go wrong.

Storage can go wrong.

Insects can damage the seed.

Moisture can create problems.

And certain defects can introduce unpleasant flavors into the finished cup.

Musty.

Harsh.

Medicinal.

Over-fermented.

Sour.

Dirty.

That's why higher-quality green coffee gets more scrutiny.

The goal isn't to make every bean look cosmetically perfect.

The goal is to protect what eventually ends up in your cup.

So what are you actually paying for with specialty coffee?

Part of the higher price is simply that better green coffee costs more.

Higher-quality coffee often requires more work before it ever reaches us.

More selective harvesting.

Better sorting.

Better processing.

More careful drying.

Defect removal.

Lot separation.

Quality control.

Cupping.

Storage.

Traceability.

Transportation.

And often a higher price paid specifically because that coffee has characteristics buyers want.

The more selective you become, the less coffee makes the cut.

That's important.

If almost anything within a certain commercial specification can go into a massive blend, your economics are very different from a buyer selecting specific coffees because of how they perform in the cup.

Specialty coffee isn't simply about acquiring coffee beans.

It's about selecting coffee for quality.

What that means at Self Revive

For us, the quality conversation starts before the roaster ever gets hot.

Roasting matters.

A lot.

But here's the reality.

A roaster cannot create green coffee quality that wasn't there to begin with.

We can develop sweetness.

We can decide how much roast character we want.

We can work with acidity.

We can influence body.

We can develop caramelization.

We can build a roast profile around what we want the finished cup to become.

But we can't take truly bad green coffee, roast it perfectly and magically turn it into exceptional coffee.

You have to start with something worth roasting.

That's why sourcing matters.

That's why selection matters.

That's why cupping matters.

And it's why the price of green coffee matters when we talk about what a finished bag costs.

Our job starts with buying good coffee.

Then we have to roast it well enough to do something worthwhile with it.

Or, put a little more simply:

Start with good coffee. Then don't screw it up.

So what's above the normal grocery-store shelf?

It's not just a nicer package.

It's not a clever name.

It's not the word "premium."

And it isn't automatically a lighter roast.

The difference starts with the raw coffee.

Cleaner green coffee.

Fewer serious defects.

More intentional harvesting and processing.

Better sorting.

More traceability.

More distinctive characteristics in the cup.

More evaluation before somebody decides to buy it.

And coffee selected because of its quality, not simply because enough of it is available at the right price.

That's what specialty coffee is trying to accomplish.

It doesn't mean every specialty coffee will be your favorite.

It doesn't mean commercial coffee is forbidden.

And it doesn't mean you need a tasting certificate to enjoy your morning cup.

It simply means there are real differences in the quality of the coffee that existed long before it reached the shelf.

The bag doesn't make it specialty.

The marketing doesn't make it specialty.

The roaster doesn't magically make it specialty.

The quality has to start with the coffee.

Everything after that is what we do with it.

Self Revive Coffee Roasters

Roasted for Resilience. Brewed to Revive. Driven by Purpose.

Questions about our coffee, sourcing or roasting?

selfrez@selfrezcoffee.com